Want to make a long-time Baltimoron mad? Choose up sides in the "Rheb's versus Wockenfuss" debate. I can think of no more hotly-contested issue regarding Baltimore's food scene, other than the proverbial "who makes the best crabcake" lightning rod. I believe a person's answer to the "Rheb's versus Wockenfuss" question is a Henry Higgins-like tool that pinpoints pretty closely what part of Baltimore a person hails from.
Now that we've passed through the grisly portal that is Halloween and its attendant sugary (and often stale) mass-produced candy, I thought it an appropriate time to do a roundup of the chocolatiers working here in Baltimore. Baltimore's chocolate candymakers fall pretty clearly into two camps: those who make the more traditional, old-fashioned chocolates and those who are today called "artisanal" chocolatiers. I'll also take a spin past my favorite little spot to run to when the desperate need for a good, non-grocery-store candy bar overtakes you.
If I were condemned to the kind of hell in which I could only eat one kind of chocolate candy for the rest of my life, it would be
Rheb's chocolates. I admit to a zeal for Rheb's candies that borders on fanaticism. I grew up, and my parents still live, within falling-down distance of Rheb's flagship store on Wilkens Avenue, and all the houses we visited when I was a kid - those of my grandparents, aunts, uncles, and friends - always had a box of Rheb's on the table at all times. The ladies of Rheb's kept records of people's special favorites; those records, handwritten on index cards, reflected a customer's own personal "mix," and if you go to the store today you can find out what my mother's, grandmothers', and my own "mixes" are. (Mine is heavy on the chocolate buttercreams, in case you were wondering.) Rheb's makes all its candy in the basement of the house adjoining the retail store, and the store is an absolute gem of cleanliness, hospitality, and decadent chocolate smell. Rheb's used to have stores in the Lexington, Hollins and Belair Markets, too, but if you want some Rheb's today, you have to go the Wilkens Avenue store, or buy online.
Rheb's chocolates come in milk and dark varieties. So loyal to the brand are Rheb's customers that you virtually can't get near the store around the traditional candy-centric holidays of Christmas, Easter or Mother's Day. I have literally stood in line for an hour at the Rheb's in Lexington Market just to pick up my family's orders for Christmas; it's not unusual to be behind a customer at the holidays who's ordering ten boxes, all with particular mixes.
Here's a little segment on WYPR devoted to Rheb's and its cultish followers. Although my daughter has traveled the world and is a sophisticated PH.D. student now at the University of Chicago, she is always happy when I send her a box of Rheb's truffles. When my family and I returned from a holiday in Switzerland with Swiss chocolate truffles carefully transported in our carry-on luggage, my mother took one bite and rendered her verdict: "Not as good as Rheb's." She amended that quickly: "Not
nearly as good as Rheb's."
Thus you can imagine my surprise when, as I was working at a big Baltimore law firm as a young associate, one of the staff secretaries announced to me that
Wockenfuss was the best chocolate candy in all of Baltimore. "
Wockenfuss?" I asked her, to be sure I heard correctly. "I like Rheb's," I volunteered. She shook her head dismissively: "WOCKENFUSS," she pronounced, as if that were all that needed to be said.
Case closed, her body language told me, as she added for emphasis: "WOCKENFUSS."
Until that moment, I had never associated Wockenfuss candies with Baltimore. I'd thought of Wockenfuss solely as an outpost of fudge in Ocean City. But how wrong I was! Wockenfuss Candies have been around since 1915 (Rheb's, the upstart, "only" dates back to 1917) and now have eight stores from Bel Air to Ocean City. The candy is much in the same traditional style as Rheb's, with milk and dark chocolate varieties; the two pictures above show boxes of Rheb's (top) and Wockenfuss (bottom) mixes, and although the two candymakers sell similar styles and varieties of chocolate, there is a distinct difference in freshness, creaminess, and texture, between the two. Blind taste testing for the purposes of this posting always resulted in the tasters' abilities to distinguish between Rheb's and Wockenfuss. Both Wockenfuss and Rheb's make excellent, satisfying, creamy chocolate candies. Piece for piece, the Wockenfuss candies are slightly larger, denser, and less "pillowy" than Rheb's:

Those are Rheb's milk and dark chocolate buttercreams, and a Rheb's sea salt caramel at the top; the Wockenfuss milk and dark chocolate buttercreams and sea salt caramel are at the bottom. Inside, the Rheb's buttercreams are fluffier and creamier in consistency; the Wockenfuss buttercream centers are chewier and more caramel-like in consistency, and which you would prefer would entirely be a matter of individual preference, because both hit you straight in the chocolate jones part of your soul:
That's a Rheb's chocolate buttercream at the top and a Wockenfuss buttercream at the bottom. And just to round out the picture of Baltimore chocolate candymakers creating candies in the traditional style, here are Naron chocolate buttercreams in milk and dark chocolate:
Naron, I believe, was founded in 1945 by a graduate of Baltimore City College and sold in 2001 to a corporation which owns Mary Sue and Glauber's candies as well. And no self-respecting Baltimoron can fail to know the words to the Mary Sue Easter Egg song! Naron chocolates can be bought at many local grocery stores; the venerable Eddie's has a chocolate candy case filled with Naron's chocolates. Below you can see a photo of three chocolate buttercreams, from Rheb's, Wockenfuss, and Naron, respectively:
Both Wockenfuss and Rheb's sell at their retail outposts (Wockenfuss with eight stores, one of which is on Belair Road in the city; Rheb's has only one store, on Wilkens Avenue) and
via etail. I have not found anywhere to buy Naron chocolates other than at local grocery stores. While Naron continues to be a Baltimore business making chocolate candy in the traditional style, it is not in the same league as Rheb's and Wockenfuss. the titans of traditional Baltimore chocolate candies. The Naron candies, when taste tested for this posting, suffered from a pronounced lack of freshness when compared to the Rheb's and the Wockenfuss buttercreams. Rheb's, especially, won the freshness challenge, even though all three brands were purchased, and eaten, on the same day. One of the candy taste testing panel who helped with this posting pronounced the Naron buttercreams "Easter 2001."
Yikes. People from the North and East of the City are going to answer "Wockenfuss" when asked for their favorite chocolate candies; people from the South and West will answer "Rheb's" to the same question. My intern, who lives on the Northeast side of town, is a mad devotee of Wockenfuss's dark chocolate pistachio marzipan.
But life in Baltimore's candy world is not all chocolate buttercreams and caramels, for here we have a handful of chocolate craftspeople who are true artisans, making small batches of European-style candies by hand. The undisputed king of this realm is Larry McGlinchey, owner and megastar of
Cacao Lorenzo Chocolatier. I've
written about Cacao Lorenzo
several times on this blog, because each time I've gone to Cacao Lorenzo I've been deeply wowed not just by the quality and consistency of quality of the candies, but also by the exquisite, over-the-top presentations. These are the kinds of candies you feel honored to eat, so carefully and thoughtfully were they crafted. Visiting the store is not the typical "kid in a candy store" experience; here, boxes and samples of the latest confections are on display, but there is no large glass-fronted candy case, and all the magic happens, literally, behind the curtain. Cacao Lorenzo is dedicated to an educated customer base, as well, with a lot of information about chocolate and its history available both at the store and via the website. Cacao Lorenzo does custom chocolate work for weddings and events as well as for corporate gift-giving, and
can ship to your lucky beneficiaries. Truffles come in milk, dark and white chocolate; with poire William cream and hazelnut gianduja. Bonbons may include lavender flower water, kirsch, chestnut, or cappucino. Every single piece of candy from Cacao Lorenzo is a stunning work of art. The big photo at the top of this posting shows a closeup of an assortment from Cacao Lorenzo. Just before my family and I fell on it.
Glarus Chocolatier, with stores in Harbor East and Timonium, makes preservative-free European-style chocolates, emphasizing particularly their truffles and chocolate bars. They do beautiful and sometimes whimsical seasonal specialties as well, and have launched their
online ordering service if you are feeling particularly lazy and unwilling to fall into the traffic jam that has lately become Harbor East.
Since 1985
Albert Kirchmayr has been crafting fine German-style chocolates in the form of bonbons, truffles, and
molded seasonal specialties from Santas to turkeys and pumpkins. Kirchmayr seems to be more widely in distribution than either Glarus or Cacao Lorenzo - you can find Kirchmayr chocolates at Wegmans and Eddie's, for example, whereas with some minor exceptions, you have to go to Glarus's stores or to Cacao Lorenzo directly to buy their candy. (That's not completely true, but it's mostly true; if you're lucky, for example, you can find some Cacao Lorenzo candy at a couple of local outposts. But for the big Mac Daddy selections of Glarus or Cacao Lorenzo, you need to go to their stores.) I am always completely entranced at the holidays by Kirchmayr's molded turkeys and Santas; I'm a sucker for those. The assortment depicted in the photo above shows my favorite Kirchmayr bonbon, the layered gianduia (the one with multiple strata of chocolate, like a grownup, bite-sized, Snickers bar.) Kirchmayr also makes gorgeous striated
chocolate dessert shells, which make beautiful, spectacular desserts when filled with berries, mousse or ice cream. Because it's more readily available than the other fine European chocolates made in Baltimore, I think Kirchmayr might suffer a bit in the popular imagination (because, perversely, we always want what's harder to get); and in that way I tend to think of Kirchmayr as the Berger cookies of Baltimore's chocolate world - delicious, and uniquely Baltimore, and very chocolatey, but since widely available, not thought of as that exotic.
Because no single human being could possibly have eaten all the chocolate candies shown in these photos and lived to tell the tale, I enlisted my intern, who enlisted some of her friends, for a chocolate candy taste test. The tasting panel consisted of a handful of super-sophisticated athletes from Friends School, who, may I say, went completely gaga for the Kirchmayr chocolates. One student wrote: "I had no idea what freshness was until I tried those!" ~ a pretty good testimonial, I'd say. The students further commented that the common thread of the Kirchmayr candies was the "complex, bold, and delightful flavors." (Kudos to the English department at Friends, right? These kids can write!) And the students particularly singled out the Earl Gray tea bonbon from Kirchmayr as their hands-down favorite. As the intern so eloquently put it, "I know it sounds disgusting but it is absolutely amazing and should be a must when you get your box of chocolates." All in all, the panel pronounced the Kirchmayr chocolates "heavenly" and "amazing," so I am expecting a stampede stretching from the Friends soccer field to Kirchmayr any day now.
A special mention should go out to
Sweet Cascades, on Main Street in Ellicott City. Sweet Cascades makes its own chocolate candies, too, and is a lovely combination of old-fashioned sweet shop (like Wockenfuss and Rheb's) and funky, uniquely themselves, candy products. Sweet Cascades also offers chocolate
-making classes, which I think would be a whale of a good time; and there's just something so darned earnest and fun about a candymaker in Maryland who
puts Old Bay in the chocolate! The Sweet Cascades store is located pretty much in the middle of the Main Street shopping zone of "olde" Ellicott City which, I recognize, is not technically "Baltimore," but is so good and special that I thought it deserved a shout out here. I really love the folks at Sweet Cascades, who will do just about anything to please you with their candy.
Not itself a chocolate candymaker, but a chocolate candy seller,
Ma Petite Shoe holds a special place in my heart as a purveyor of all kinds of interesting chocolates (including Cacao Lorenzo), most in bar form. Here you can find chocolate bars with green tea, chili, olives, hazelnuts, even bacon! And candy bars with names like "cocoon" or "tranquility" (or, if you're trying to match my own personal mood, something more like "honk horn loudly and look frazzled.") I love the entire thang of Ma Petite Shoe - a store devoted to two perennial gal favorites, shoes and chocolate. You really can't come away from Ma Petite Shoe without a smile on your face, but if you're not up to the misery that can be parking in Hampden, you can order chocolates from Ma Petite Shoe online
here.
And if you need photographic proof of the point at which this posting began - that there were always boxes of Rheb's candies about in all the houses of all my relatives from time immemorial, this black and white photo shows me, my mother, aunt and a bunch of cousins in the living room at my grandparents' house on Westport Street on Easter Sunday. (Vanity precludes my identifying the year, but as you can tell from the clothes, this wasn't exactly taken yesterday.) That's me, the baby on the right, with the Jackie Kennedy-esque stylish dark-haired mom. And down front, on the left.....the box of Rheb's...... open, because we're already demolishing it.....(there's probably some melted Rheb's chocolate in that bottle my mother is feeding me.)
Here's all the basic 411 to get your chocolate candy jones addressed:
3352 Wilkens Avenue
410.644.4321; 800.514.8293
Mondays through Saturdays 8:30 AM to 4:45 PM
8 locations; city store at 5420 Belair Road
410.483.4414 (locally); 800.296.4414
store hours vary by location; Belair Road store's hours are 9 AM to 6 PM, Mondays through Saturdays
1818 Pot Spring Road, Timonium
410.453.9334
Mondays through Fridays, 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturdays, 10 AM to 5 PM; closed Sundays
9 W. Aylesbury Road, Timonium and in Harbor East at 644 South Exeter Street
410.252.6601; 866. GLARUS.1
store hours vary by location
9630 Deereco Road, Timonium
410.561.7705
Mondays through Fridays, 9 AM to 5 PM; Saturdays, 10 AM to 5 PM; closed Sundays
8167 Main Street, Ellicott City
410.750.8422
Tuesdays through Sundays, 10 AM to 6 PM
832 W. 36th Street (The Avenue)
410.235.3442
Mondays through Thursdays, 11 AM - 7 PM; Fridays, 11 AM - 8 PM with a chocolate happy hour from 6 PM - 8 PM (that's two hours of chocolate happiness!); Saturdays, 11 AM - 7 PM; and Sundays, noon- 5 PM